La Butte Aux Cailles - Cultural Paris
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La Butte Aux Cailles
By Coline Duvall
I n the 13th district of Paris, meet up with the authentic and charming Butte-aux-Cailles street, a true village within Paris. First there was the Bievre river which flew at the footsteps of the Butte-au-Cailles with its watermills and its side alleys. The same ones that Jean-Jacques Rousseau loved.
LA BUTTE AUX CAILLES
From the XIVth century, the river was turned by the dye factories into an open sewer . It was slowly covered up by new streets that show today its sinuous progression.
To enjoy again the charm of this period, alight at at Metro Corvisart, take the stairs rue Eugène-Atget that lead to the hill via boulevard Auguste-Blanqui. The rue Jonas, then on the right, rue des cinq-diamants lead to rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, historical heart of the area.
The fragility of the underground full of limestone patches saved the place from gigantic modernism: between the apple trees the small low roofed-houses of two and three storeys recall the country style origin of the area.
LA BUTTE AUX CAILLES
A social architecture
Far from its bad repute of bad boys trap which prevailed during the last century, the Butte-aux-Cailles gives today the image of a preserved place.
If one walks to the Place Paul Verlaine one can discover two curiosities connected to the cleaning of the Bièvre in the XIVth century; the artesian wells where even today one can still fill jerrycans up with pure water emerging from some 600 meters deep down; plus the swimming pool built in 1924 to make use of that same water.
It is there at the same spot in the XVIIIth century where the first Pilâtre de Rozier’s air balloon landed.
The street “Moulin des Près”, then street des Peupliers, lead to the foot of the hill. One must stop at no. 72 Square des Peupliers, where one can admire a lovely area built with charming villas tottered beneath heavy greenery.
LA BUTTE AUX CAILLES
At the end of the street, the square de l’Abbé George Hénocque is full of houses built in a typically British style.
In this area several working-class types of brick based housings have emerged; as one can see further away rue Dieu Lafoye, the amazing small houses with pointed roofs.
From the Abbé-Georges-Hénocque square, head for the rue de la Colonie, then rue de la Fontaine-à-Mulard.
Once Square de Rungis, walk along towards rue Savarin which opens on Cité florale on your right that is an example of social architecture In the 1930s.
LA BUTTE AUX CAILLES
Through the rue des Glycines, one can wander around the art déco semi detached houses with their front gardens. This charming lot offers a stunning contrast with the estate housing buildings close by...
One can access the rue Daviel’s hillock from the rue Vergniaux.
Do not miss at no. 10 rue Daviel, the small Alsace, another working class housing estate very chic with its gaudy timbered houses (1913).
On the left after rue Barrault you will meet again the rue « de la Butte-aux-Cailles and further down the « Place de la Commune-de-Paris. In 1871, the communists organised there the resistance before surroundering before the Versailles troops.
Around this square, the bistros remain open late at night ; same as they did before them the taverns and popular and joyful dancing floors that existed then.
You only have to walk towards the rue Eugène-Atget to go down to the Butte-aux-Cailles, leave the village and find yourself in the city again...
This walk takes about 1h30.
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